June, 2004

Photographs in travel guides led me to Chiang Mai expecting a city filled with monuments to its 700-year history and vistas of uniquely Asian architecture. The reality was somewhat different, and when the initial long-distance travel euphoria wore off, acute disappointment set in for the first two years of my tenure in Thailand's northern capital city.

It's the nature of travel industry information that only the good and the beautiful of destinations are portrayed. Tight holiday schedules need filled with pleasure and excitement, while writers and editors often overlook the needs of longer stay visitors.

The Thai government has in the last few years begun initiatives to capture long stay tourists and retiree expatriates, recognising them as significant contributors to foreign currency earnings, but what is on offer to entice them into remaining?

I'm often told that here in Chiang Mai there is an incredible variety of options, unfortunately it can take a strong determination and perseverance to root out interests that appeal for longer than annual two-week breaks whilst avoiding descent into the stereotypical bar culture lifestyle.

In preparing this article, even after five years here, it was almost impossible to locate activities and pursuits (not involving alcohol) that I would choose in the UK. But then, here, I don't have a six figure income, nor have my living and legal expenses paid by the company. Neither do those whose comments were the seed for what follows.

For many, the primary sources of leisure activity information are monthly magazines distributed through hotels, restaurants, and other tourist haunts. These list clubs and associations, as well as a regular diet of what has and will happen in the city. Some are aimed directly at short-stay visitors, a few at longer-term residents.

Most foreigners complain too many events are not pre-advertised in the English press; editors blame TAT, expats blame lack of on-street advertising in English, and tourists blame profit seeking tour guides and 'Tourist Information' kiosks for not informing about free activities.

I visited the Public Relations Department at City Hall to ask for a list of forthcoming events and was told that a list is prepared daily, which anyone can collect, but it is in Thai language only. The enthusiastic and helpful PR Dept staff do not trust their own English skills enough to attempt translation.

Less than immediately obvious information, in the magazines, includes programmes from arts centres, museums, and theatres, and schedules for expatriate meetings groups and societies. There appears to be few of the latter category.

Where, for example, are the common interest and hobby groups? Where are the photographic club, ceramics, various collectors', and antiquarian groups that many home-country citizens tend to join? Where is the members-only expatriates social and community club? Apart from the 'Farangutans' are there any non-Thai sports teams?

A surprising number of us cannot afford the ?1,000 an hour shooting ranges, or ?2,000 per round golf courses, or regular evenings at riverside restaurants for ?750 per head. Forget about a course of ?500 per half-day cookery classes, and ?8,000 balloon rides. None of these are viable options for teachers on ?17,000 government rate per month (less legal costs and tax) - the adage of living within one's means being the controlling factor here.

The activities I'm alluding to are the hobby clubs that meet in community provided venues, and cost members ?0.50 to ?1.50 (?35 - ?100) per week in subscription fees, for which a full evening's activities are enjoyed. True there are several western churches and many charity organisations such as the CM Disabled Centre and the Raintree Centre, but if religion and helping others were not 'your thing' at home, would you accept being given no other choice here? I thought not - yet soon, some may have no choice.

The PM's plan announced two years ago, for retirees to receive long stay visas in return for performing unpaid teaching in Thai universities, may appear to have been shelved, but never forget - TIT, and if it happens it could close the volunteer-teacher option, paid or unpaid.

Other expat gripes I've overheard include that learning practical skills & handicrafts are popular back home, but here, there are few such services for non-Thais, and I've seen no advertising that offer courses as cheaply as in British community centres. Similarly, attending 'night school' for academic, artistic, or vocational skills is popular with many westerners, but other than learning Thai, I've seen no openings for that in Chiang Mai, other than expensive Master's Degree programmes.

Popular volunteer activities, including St. John's Ambulance, special constabulary, and similar, appear closed to non-Thais. I've not found any 'historical re-enactment' activity of the type that over two million Americans and Britons engage in every summer weekend (for the entertainment of enthusiasts and tourists and to raise money for charity). In fact, history related activity seems to be near zero outside of official departments, despite it being a major leisure influence throughout Europe.

All of the above reports overheard conversations, and my own look at life in Chiang Mai. The gripes are yours, not mine. I always find something to fill my time. My gripe is usually not having enough hours in the day, and to those few who do organise affordable activities for non-millionaire expats, I offer my sincerest thanks, and warmest praise, for making the effort.

So, next time you've warming your favourite bar stool, complaining that there's nothing to do in Chiang Mai other than drinking or watching TV, ask yourself what you would do back home and is it available here? If it's not, you've only yourself to blame for not seeking others with the same interest, and beginning that activity as a group. After all, that's how we gained such diverse social activities back home. I'm certain that local magazine editors would be very pleased to assist in promoting your efforts.

"If you allow your brain to stagnate, you can't complain if it only has the capacity to control your drinking arm," said someone I know. "